Wednesday, July 1, 2009

America's Test Kitchen Bread Rescue



Having gotten a good start on bread weapons, I thought it would be nice to learn how to make edible bread so I know what NOT to do for bread weapons making.

I turned to The New Best Recipe cookbook for some help. Otherwise known as the "engineer's cookbook", The New Best Recipe is made by the folks at America's Test Kitchen who also edit Cook's Illustrated magazine. Luckily for me they had a section on making baguettes.

I knew I had bitten off more than I can chew at first when the opening paragraph of the baguette section included, "Where we parted ways was on the question of whether you could actually create an outstanding baguette at home in a regular oven." Uh oh.

I spent a weekday evening reading through their thorough research. From visual cues how to tell that the sponge was ready, to when the dough is kneaded enough all the way to when the bread is done baking, they outlined it all. They had some nice pictures of the aforementioned sponge (the sponge is the first mixture of yeast, flour and water, I call it yeast appetizer, before the rest of the flour is added) which I found very helpful as an end condition to watch for. My sponge actually wasn't ready in the cookbook's estimated duration of 8 hours, but took the rest of the night into the next morning.

I already knew that I enjoy the kneading process - it's very relaxing squishing around a ball over and over again - but the new process made it even more fun. The reason I didn't reach the windowpane condition of the dough the last time was because I was adding the wrong ingredient to address the issue: flour instead of water. Adding water on top of the dough only made it feel slippery and hard to grip, but by "crashing" the dough, picking it up and throwing it down on the work surface repeatedly, it would not only splash bits of water at the counter, but incorporate the water into the dough. Best of all, when I pinched off a tiny bit of dough and stretched it, it didn't break and became translucent - the elusive, yet promised windowpane.

The baking process was also fun and much more active. I used my pizza stone to bake on rather than a regular cookie sheet. But on the rack beneath the pizza stone was a pan of water to keep the humidity of the oven air up as the bread baked and prevent the crust from drying out, hardening and preventing the bread from expanding. The bread was done when the inside reached a temperature of 205-210F, so I was having to spear hot bread with my thermometer through the blazing heat of the oven to see if it was done.

Then it was time to see the results. Before the taste test, I was able to actually cut the bread with a bread knife. The crust was slightly crunchy and the crumb inside looked relatively uniform. It tasted like bread! I thought it was on the chewy side, but not the kind of chewy I remember store bought baguettes being like. But it tasted like bread! Victory dance!

Next up, sourdough.

PS: Believe it or not, the photo in this post is actually my bread.

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